What the Chinese People Want.

What the Chinese People Want / Apa Yang China Mahu

By CH Hwe 

Tuan Syed,

I wrote to you last year to ask for you POV on my voting for PR. And of course like most Chinese, I voted for PR.

In your last mail, you talked about aspiration. That different people have different aspirations and we vote for our aspiration.

With the developments post GE, and reading your posts and your reader's comments, i feel compelled to explain "Apa Lagi Cina Mau" to someone who has some influence to the powers in BN and to your readers who are BN supporters. While I do not agree with many of your POV but I do respect you as a thought leader who wants a better Malaysia.

I cannot claim to speak for 100% of the Chinese but I as a Chinese media consumer, a keen social observer user, an advertising executive ( i do a lot of consumer research) and a Cheras-mali who hangs at coffeeshops very often,  I can safely say I have very good sense of what the Chinese wants.

The biggest theme that has emerged, from chinese mainstream media to social media to coffeeshops is 腐败 (FU BAI), translated as Corrupted and Rotten.

I think the biggest difference between the Chinese and other communities aside from our larger number middle to upper class, is the Point of Reference. 

You speak to Chinese you'll see that they keep referring to Singapore, Taiwan, HK and Korea in their economic and civil development. We talk about their currencies, their GDPs, their transportations, their clean roads etc...We want Malaysia to be like them and corruption is stopping us from that. Once and once again big corruption cases emerge and none of the culprits are convicted.  

Yes, it is as simple as that. We want to reject a corrupted and rotten system. And PR has given us hope ( whether they can manage it or not is another story) that they can get rid of the corrupt and rotten.

Really, there is nothing racial or incendiary about our aspiration. I swear on my mother's name that I have not come across any PR (including DAP) messages in any languages (including Chinese) about pitting against non-chinese, wanting to change the country to a republic, changing the official language and religion ( Christian state?!!!!! I'm taoist!) etc. NEVER!  

Check these 2 videos out. I think one is done by a DAP member. They are as crass and vulgar as you can get. And these videos reflect what the chinese ground thinks. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MnWSIUIMTnc, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QvYdrXrkydY.  

I am sure you will not agree with its message but can you tell me if they are inciting the Chinese to hate against other communities or does it have anything to do about having more Chinese power? (BTW, the sense on the chinese ground is indifferent about not having Chinese in the cabinet. This cabinet, got chinese no chinese , no difference.)

I'd admit there is 1 aspiration exclusive to the Chinese that is better treatment of Chinese education. The issue is delicate,  but in the long term, i do think we need 1 school for all.

So to  those currently in power and  to your readers who are asking my family and i to stop asking so much from the government who has handed us so much and let us prosper in this land...

We have moved on from simple bread and butter issues, we do not need handouts,  and we really want a government that is transparent,  clean and fair to all. And if you look at narratives by the Chinese  "fair to all" doesn't mean Cina-Power but rather NO TO CRONYISM! 

We have moved on, if I may, ahead of other communities to more progressive, 1st world aspirations.

I can assure you, if the next 5 years the BN government can demonstrate that BN is 腐败 (FU BAI/ Corruption & Rotten) no more , Chinese votes will be back to BN.

(Catch a few BIG FISH you'll see what wonders it'll do). But the question is, does BN even need Chinese votes and will it become less corrupted? I don't think so but i wish i'm wrong.

As more Chinese like me continue to sulk and get further confused by people asking Apa Lagi Cina Mau , I wish you all the best in your fight for a better Malaysia.

best regards,

Hwe

*p/s if you come across chinese materials that you suspect is incendiary and your aides are not able to help to translate, i'm here. No i wont sugar coat. But i'll also urge those who said DAP incite hatred to stop the slander.

Posted by Syed Akbar Ali at 7:05:00 PM 

Answering CH Hwe's "What the Chinese People Want"

 

I received a call last nite from an ultra Melayu friend who lambasted me for running CH Hwe's opinion. He said he was going to boycott my Blog. I also received almost 100 comments and still receiving. Here is my quick reply to CH Hwe.

First of all no one likes corruption. There is no doubt about that. And I think there is one simple solution which I hope CH Hwe and his friends can help in making come true. It will not cost you a single sen. It is guaranteed to wipe out huge swathes of corruption in our country. Plus it will save you tons of money. It will lower the cost of living, make things cheaper and thereby lower inflation. Yes Mr CH Hwe this is the magic bullet to solve corruption in this country. And you can play a large part in it. Do read on.

Secondly at this juncture the Chinese people must be very careful what exactly do they want from the system that we have in this country. This system is a Malay-Muslim dominated system. The demographics show that as a percentage of the entire population the Chinese population is shrinking - to just over 25% of the population now and it will go lower to 20% and perhaps 15% all within the next 15 years. The Indian population is now at 8% and also shrinking as a percentage.

However in absolute numbers both the numbers of Chinese and Indians are increasing. There are more than 8.0 million Chinese now and there are more than 2.5 million Indians in the country. It is the number of Malays, bumiputras, Muslims that is increasing a lot faster - now almost 19 million of them.

So if you dont like the present demographics, the demographics are only going "to get worse" for you. You must come to terms and learn to deal with this. 

I am not puitting this negatively - we must adapt to our environment. Assimilation and integration are different words with different meanings but these are the words that you must consider.  The Chinese in Indonesia have done it (and they are still Chinese), the Chinese in Thailand and the Phillipines have also done it.

Thus far for the Chinese and most of everyone else this country has been a wonderful place to live in, to do business in and to raise a family.  My christian church friends say that Malaysia is 'the land of milk and honey".  And this did not happen by itself. It is good leadership and careful management of the needs and wants of the many races in the country for the past 58 years that have made this the land of milk and honey. 

If you are not convinced about this please look at our neighbours like Thailand, Phillipines, Indonesia, Myanmar and even Singapore. Except for Singaporee all the other countries became independent before us. Singapore is now the wealthiest nation (per capita GDP) on earth. But do you want to live there? Do you want to live in Thailand, Phillipines, Indonesia or Myanmar? 

For the Nanyang Chinese diaspora in the Siang Pau, Malaysia has been better than Thailand, Phillipines, Indonesia and even Singapore. This is the land of milk and honey. 

Yes there is corruption in this country - especially among the politicians.  But what I am really perplexed is if you are against corruption then why did you vote for the corrupt? 

You see it was Karpal Singh who said in Parliament (it is now recorded for history) that Anwar Ibrahim was suspected of being a homosexual.  Then it was Mat Sabu who publicly accused Anwar Ibrahim of the same thing. The issue here is not the morality of homosexuality - as some of my own commenters have been pointing out to me. That is not the issue.

The issue is

1. it was Karpal Singh who accused Anwar of homosexuality in Parliament. Why did he do that? 

2. it was Mat Sabu who acused Anwar of homosexuality in public. Again why did he do that?

But after Anwar was kicked out, how come both of them (DAP and PAS) forget their own accusations against Anwar and hoisted him up as their leader?  This is what is quite perplexing. And as an anti-corruption crusader like yourself, can you please explain this strange behaviour as well?

Now for all you liberal, pro LGBT friends or fiends out there, please understand simple English - this is not a debate on the morality of homosexuality or cheating on your wife (though I am sure all that is debateable. But I am not debating or questioning the morality of Anwar Ibrahim's sexual preferences here.  (Neither am I forfeiting the right to debate homosexuality or adultery).

It is just a very simple case of 'dulu awak tuduh Anwar korup, rasuah, peliwat, penzina, al juburi dsbnya'. It was YOU, YOU and YOU who accused him. Not me, not I, mot myself and not we. It was YOU, YOU and YOU.  Karpal Singh and Mat Sabu are on public record.

So how do you justify voting for the same Anwar Ibrahim? This is what beguiles me. 

And dont forget Anwar Ibrahim was found guilty and jailed for six years for the CORRUPT abuse of power of ordering the Police to arrest and torture one Ummi Hafilda Ali, a young Malay woman, who had written a letter that went public, accusing him of the same sexual misbehaviours.

Now, is that the behaviour of an innocent, law abiding citizen and Deputy Prime Minister of a country? To order the Police to arrest and torture an innocent young woman and force her to retract her accusations against him?

What would have been the correct way to handle such a situation?  Shouldnt Anwar have sued Ummi Hafilda for RM100.0 million in Court to clear his name? 

Are you wondering why I say this? Because that is what Anwar has been doing now - suing people for RM100.0 Million to shut them up against making any  accusations against him. So why did he abuse his power as Deputy Prime Minister and ask the Police to arrest and torture Ummi Hafilda Ali  in 1997? 

So this is what is perplexing. If the Chinese community is so against corruption, then why do you vote for such a person like Anwar Ibrahim? 

Lets talk more about corruption and being transparent. Doesnt it bother the Chinese community who voted for the PR to ask Anwar Ibrahim to declare his assets?

You must know that he is not a poor man. Anwar Ibrahim is much more wealthier than most of you Chinese who have worked hard to earn your money. Yet Anwar Ibrahim does not work at all. He has no job or business. So where does he get his wealth? 

This is why I say the Chinese community (who voted for the PR) must be careful about what they say now. You must be very, very careful about what you say.

Do you seriously expect people to take you seriously when you still support Anwar Ibrahim because 'you do not support corruption'? You must really be joking.

If you say the entire UMNO is corrupted, then how do you explain the fact that your hero Anwar Ibrahim was kicked out of UMNO and then found guilty in Court for corrupt abuse of power ?

You say UMNO is a rubbish bin (tong sampah). OK fine - this is a free country. You can say what you want about UMNO. But how come even when the 'tong sampah' kicked out Anwar Ibrahim you go and carry him on your head and vote for him?  You can support a 'tong sampah' reject? You must be really very sick. Very,very sick. 

You are being hypocritical. (Please read till the end - I have a suggestion how the Chinese community can help eradicate corruption completely).

Lets talk more about Anwar Ibrahim. How much money do you think he has in the banks all over the world? 

RM1.0 million? RM10.0 million? RM100.0 million? RM1.0 Billion? Ok lets switch currency. How about in Sing Dollars? How much money do you think he has in Sing Dollars?

S$1.0 million? S$10.0 million? S$100.0 million? S$1.0 Billion? Ok lets switch currency. How about in US Dollars? How much money do you think he has in US$?

US$1.0 million? US$10.0 million? US$100.0 million? US$1.0 Billion? How much money do you think he has?

You must answer this question because:

i. he is very wealthy - more wealthy than most of you hard working Chinese

ii. he does not have a business or a 9-5 job

iii. you say you are 'anti corruption'.

The same goes for Azmin Ali, Khalid Ibrahim, Zaid Ibrahim, Mat Taib, Kadir Sheikh Fazir, Chua Jui Meng and the other 'clean as a white sheet" former BN politicians who have jumped to the PR - just like Anwar Ibrahim.  All these people are very, very rich and wealthy people.

When they were in the BN you accused all of them of being corrupt. Now when they jump ship to PR do you seriously expect people to believe that they have suddenly become "clean as a white sheet" angels?

And lets not forget the PAS or the DAP.  They are more corrupt than the BN. Fortunately they operate in a small area (Penang, Selangor, Kelantan). In the short time they ruled Perak, the two cousin guys have been implicated in many shady deals. Within 45 days of taking power they were already awarding tailoring contracts to wives and dearly beloved. They also landed 10,000 acres of land in Kelantan for themsleves.

And YB Massage Parlour became such an embarrasment for the DAP that they dropped him completely for the 2013 elections. I think his political career is finished. But so what? Sudah kaya mah. He is really reallr rich. Sudah makan cukup-cukup. And there are many rumours about the lady YB as well - she was dropped from the State line up for the same reason - sapu duit. 

Now if the UMNO or BN boys do the same - what would you call it? I cant hear you. Can you speak up a little louder. Did you say corruption? 

You also have the Talam scandal in Selangor. That is easily a billion Ringgit there. All cleverly hidden behind layers and layers of documents, contracts and different companies that will never be traceable.

Again if the UMNO or BN boys do the same - what would you call it? I cant hear you. Can you speak up a little louder. Did you say corruption? 

Then Zaid Ibrahim and that Gobala fellow left the PKR because of rigging, fraud and cheating in the PKR party elections. I did not say this. This is what Zaid Ibrahim and Gobala said. Zaid set up his own party Kita. So the PKR cheated in their own party elections.

Again if the UMNO or BN boys do the same - what would you call it? I cant hear you. Can you speak up a little louder. Did you say corruption?

The DAP also cheated in their party elections. Again I did not say this. DAP members themselves said this. They even filed reports with the ROS and there is an investigation still going on. 

And here is the really big killer that has come out of the ROS' preliminary investigations - 750 DAP members who had voting rights were NOT invited to attend the party's elections.  This is a question that is bigger, 10 times bigger than the fact that the votes were changed to allow Zairil Khir Johari Thomas Clarence Nuts And Peas a seat on the DAP's CEC. Why were 750 members NOT invited to attend the DAP party elections? 

So here it is one more time - if the UMNO or BN boys do the same - what would you call it? I cant hear you. Can you speak up a little louder. Did you say corruption? 

So it is obvious that corruption IS NOT THE TOP OF YOUR WORRIES OR CONCERNS. 

THIS IS WHY MANY PEOPLE DONT BUY THE THEORY THAT THE CHINESE VOTED FOR THE PAKATAN BECAUSE THESE CHINESE ARE ANTI CORRUPTION. SORRY.

This is why I say - the Chinese who voted for the Pakatan must be very careful what they say now.  What is it that you really want? Be specific. Put it on the table. Be honest. Then we can talk about it honestly. All this talking in circles does not help you or help anyone. 

Finally here is my suggestion to the Chinese community about how to eradicate corruption in this country. I address this to everyone, not just the Chinese, but because the Chinese who voted for the Pakatan point out that this is a major sore point with them, then here is a simple suggestion.

Get all the Chinese associations, the Chinese guilds, the Chinese clans, the Dong Zhong, the Chinese Chambers of Commerce, the Chinese temples and Meditation Societies to gather at the Thean Hou Temple in Seputeh, the Kek Lok Si Temple, the Chinese Assembly Hall in Kuala Lumpur or anywhere else that is appropriate and make a sacred vow that beginning from today NO CHINESE shall offer a single bribe to any Government official.

This is a simple, easy peasy, cost free, most effective, assured of 100% success solution. This suggestion of mine guarantees 100% success.

Just make a sacred vow, in your mother'a name, your father's name, in the name of your ancestors etc - that you will NEVER pay even one sen in corruption to any Policeman or to any Government servant.   Even if they torture you, even if they tie your hands and roast you over the fire you will NEVER belanja minum, belanja karaoke, belanja shopping for any Policeman or Government servant.

And live up to your vow. It will certainly kill corruption in the country. And here is the best part - at zero cost. You will wipe out corruption without having to spend a single sen.

Now you may ask why target the Chinese. I say friend, please grow up ok. The Government is almost 100% Malay. The huge majority of businessmen who pay the corrupt Civil Servants are still Chinese. You know it, I know it even the neighbour's cat knows it.

So make a vow that you will NEVER pay a single sen in corruption money to any Civil Servant.

Now, please note that I am not being cruel. If I want to be cruel, then I will ask you to extend your vow to cover private sector corruption as well. That is about 10 times bigger than corruption in the Civil Service.  Maybe a 100 times bigger. But we will leave that for another day.

Posted by Syed Akbar Ali at 12:58:00 PM 

Tuan Syed make my day. So, the 97% Malaysian Chinese turned their back to Najib and face Anwar because Malaysia is full of corruption? Your real answer is as good as mine. I hope you all achieve your dream. In the meantime, dream on............... 

Chinese To Learn.

Bumputra, for the non-Bumiputra

When the Constitution was drafted, all Malayan thought that was the best compromise. The Chinese and Indian immigrants were only there for at most 2 generations (excluding the minority peranakan (Chinese) or Chitty Peranakan (Indian) who stayed since 1400s).

first i invite you to imagine this scenario. Imagine in 8 years time, the second generations of the 6-8 millions Bangladeshis, Indonesians, and Nepalese, started to demand for citizenship, citing that they are born bred in Malaysia, speaks BETTER MALAY than many of the Malaysians, and live the lifestyle of a Malaysian.

My first question is, in what way would you grant MASS citizenship to them?

My grandmother told me, the situation back then was the same. She was a MCA member back then since Tan Cheng Lock. The Chinese has No where to cling to. China was in war with Japan and Communist practiced Close door policy. Taiwanese regarded Malaysian chinese as “HUA QIAO”, and technically labelled us as if we have perpetually migrated away, like those in US or European Chinese.

with that in mind, the only way to settle, was to ASK the then government, British, for mass citizenship, citing contributions to the development to then Malaya/Federation of Malay land, and swearing loyalty. HOWEVER, the native (concept of native was very simple back then, either you are a Nusantarian (from Nusantara), or you are NOT Nusantarian.

The British were Prepared to Grant mass citizenship to these Chinese people through the Malayan Union Charter, which was intended to make all three : straits settlements (Penang Melaka Singapore), Federated Malay States, and non Federated Malay States, into CROWN COLONIES.

UMNO was then formed to rally the Nusantarians (Malay) to oppose the Malayan Union charter. Like it or not, they are NOT prepared to allow the British colonial master to GRANT mass citizenship to the then Immigrants who doesn’t intergrate/assimilate into their culture. (i use their, because the racial line back then was VERY clear. no Chinese speaks Malay!)

British have to succumb to the pressure of UMNO. so were the Chinese. and Tunku was then tasked to find out a grand compromise between the Malays/Nusantarians and the Immigrant Chinese/Indians.

The grand compromise, that convinced the then local Malays, to accord these 1st and second generation Chinese immigrants MASS citizneship, was that their need to be treated “special”, hence the Reid Commission’s drafting of “special position” in educaiton and economic sectors.

The Chinese back then agreed to it.

My father asked me, when then, this notion and consequences from the grand compromise ends?

I reckoned that the MAIN premise that causes the grand compromise for mass citizenship, is because of the maintainence of “Chineseness” of our grandparents. they started Chinese school, insist on communicating in the Chinese language, live the life style of Chinese. technically, building another Chinese State/Province outside China. teaching the values of Chinese, reading books from China (pre-cultural revolution) etc. There is no sense of integration whatsoever. This “MAIN PREMISE” attracts retaliation, which is the “SECONDARY PREMISE” of bumiputra-hood.

if you study the concept of bumiputra carefully, you would have realised it’s not sooo much on “protecting the interest of natives”. the ideology and philosophy of bumiputra concept entails two big aspect.

The first aspect is to curb the “Chineseness”. Chinese merchants back then, were close to the British rulers. you have Peranakans who wear Kerongsang bearing Queen Victoria’s image. You also have Chinese Chambers of Commerce who have British patrons. it shows that apart of foreign control of our economy (Professor Shamsul Amri said, almost 50-60%), the CHinese controlled almost 70% of whats left. 

Technically speaking, the native Nusantarians has no economic power at all. They were of the view, that if these minority immigrants, after holding such immence economical power, attempts to seize political power, would crush their existence. You can’t blame them for having that thoughts. it’s a sentiment that is common almost among absolute majority of them. That’s where they need extra assurance if they were to agree to grant mass citizenship.

The second aspect, is the “emotional” insecurity of the existence of large population of “Chinese Immigrants” and “indian Immigrants”. There is fear of these two large immigrants group (back then), who REFUSE to integrate/assimilate (i know it’s a harsh word to use, but that was exactly the reason), would unite against the native Nusantarians (mostly Malays) and kill of their religion and culture. This emotion actual DETERS the Nusantarians back then to even AGREE on granting mass citizenship to the 1st and 2nd generation of Immigrants.

With these two aspects in mind, the then leader Tunku, will have to find out a way to move forward. He can either refuse Chinese and indian’s mass citizenship request, forcing them to either leaving Malayan in stage, or he can find a grand compromise between both.

He then, adviced the Reid Commission, to draft the BIGGEST contract ever between the Nusantarians and 1st/2nd generation Immigrants, which is known as article 153 of the Federal Consituttion.

With the Introduction of Article 153 in the Federal Constitution, the Nusantarians decided that they can do away with both aspect of fearing the intrusion of “Chineseness” and “insecurity sentiment” in economical and educational aspect. because their position of NOT being affected by Chineseness, and NOT being economically compromised, is protected in the constiution.

Our grand/great grand parents, who were first and second generation immigrants, too, were happy with this grand compromise, in exchange for Mass citizenship.

It’s almost impossible, for a country with native people that shares common/ or near common lifestyle, to grant MASS citizneship to 1st/2nd generation immigrant groups who DOES NOT shares their lifesytle/near common lifestyle. Chinese and INdian refuse to integrate and refuse to assimilate, but are demanding citizenship. The Nusantarian natives of course were against it and they have the numbers to say NO.

Chinese and indian 1st & 2nd generation immigrant then realise it’s “WORTH” entering into such contract, knowing that they have no where else to go.

The second best scenario, would be to stay as permanent residents, and NOT being able to gain full citizenship by the native Nusantarians. NOT GOOD ENOUGH! they said. they wanted citizenship!

If you bear this historical facts in mind, you can then apply to my first case scenario.

you try to imagine, the second/third generation of Bangladeshis and Nepaliese and Indonesians, who make up of 6-9 millions of Malaysian population, is demanding the rights of a citizen in Malaysia. That includes benefits, fundings, education, healthcares, and also RIGHT TO VOTE.

They claimed that they have been paying TAX, contributed to the country, and helped the economic (which is true, look at all the construction workers who put our country into pieces).

They also claimed that they are born bred in Malaysia and they want MASS citizneship (not individual application, but MASS granting of 6-9 million citizenship).

WHAT DOES IT TAKE, FOR YOU TO GRANT THEM MASS CITIZNESHIP OF 9000000 CITIZENS TO THEM?

The Nusantarians were satisfied to grant mass citzienship, as long as they have guarenteed position in educaiton economics whatnot as per Article 153.

How about you?

put it back into this situation.

TO answer my fathers question, when is this BUMIPUTRA’s concept going to end?

I told him, as long as the aspect of “CHINESENESS” and “INSECURITY” no longer haunts the Nusantarians.

Till now, there are more NUsantarians who found their common grounds with the Chinese and others non – bumi. That’s why you see there are more Malays who are prepared (not alot, but more than last time) to give up the bumiputra status.

But still, the common ground are not strong. Look at the Chinese guy who got punch by KFC. He hold a press conference. this guy, cannot SPEAK English and Malay.

and i can tell you, there are HELL LOTS of Chinese like that in Malaysia. Genevieve Bois and Dimishtra Sittampalam can vouch. They said there are Hell lots of urban Chinese who stays in PPR, cannot speak English or Malay. Many of my friends back in Kedah too are like that.

These Chinese went to Chinese Primary, Chinese independant, and went to Taiwan/China for their tertiary.

or some went to Signapore

or Europe / US.

They never did cross path with the Native Nusantarians.

They don’t know what is khutbah jumaat.

They don’t know why FEMALE malay from Kelantan is called MEK Farhana Roslan

They don’t know why MALE malay from PERAK is called YOB Amir Fareed Rahim

They don’t know Malay people don’t go to “register” their marriage.

They don’t UNDERSTAND the Malays’ thoughts and lifestyle.

in essence, they refuse to integrate or refuse to find a common ground with the Malays.

EVEN in Mamak, Chinese are sitting with Chinese, Malay are sitting with Malay.

Only a FEW, Minority occasions where three races have no barrier.

Not enough!

Not enough to tell the massive Nusantarians, that they can feel secure now about the “CHINESENESS” effect. Not enough to tell the massive Nusantarians, that they can “survive” and “feel secure” about their interest in economy and education.

Till that happens, till Chinese in Malaysia decide to tone down our “Chineseness” (*not getting rid, just tone down), we cannot do away with bumiputra policies. it’s too dangerous.

The exit clause of the Federal Constitution Contract is clear.

1.) Either we honour it until time immemorial if we are still carrying our ancestors’ legacy (Chinese school, Chinese language, Chinese Chamber of Commerce, the word “Chinese” trumpts over Malaysian in education and economical aspect)

or

2.) We assimilate into the Nusantarians. IE, become a Malay.

That’s the exit clause.

But to put the contract to an “END”, we need to find MORE common grounds with the Nusantarians.

Source : http://www.facebook.com/taizeekin/posts/10151559295110306

Riau & Sumatra Barat.

06 May 2013: The Federal Highway was free this morning, a Public Holiday, a day after General Election. Arrived at Subang Sky Park and joined by my cousin. The two Retirees were on a mission to “jalan jalan cari makan or cari pasal”. Checked in, destined for Pekanbaru Sumatra and had our breakfast before Departure Hall. Took off at 0830 hrs, smooth flight vides Fokker Friendship. It was in 1993 last, I flew in one. I was quite depressing during the flight as Selangor remained with PR but overall, Malaysia remains intact with BN. I joked with my cousin hopefully by the time we return home Dato Seri Najib is still the PM.

  

Arrived Pekanbaru – smoothly passing the Immigration and Custom. Checked in at Dyan Graha Hotel, located at Jalan Gatot Suproto which is close to a Shopping Mall. I excused myself to meet a friend, in the meantime my cousin was looking for a chauffeured driven car for our extension trip to Bukittinggi and onward to Padang. My cousin got a car for 1.1 million Rph. for three (3) days period with Pak Wir. To me it was a good bargain, too good to be true. I gave the benefit of doubt.

Hotel Dyan Graha.

To start with, Pak Wir drove us for lunch at Pondok Patin H. M. Yunus at Jalan Kaharuddin No 1. Well, we enjoyed the food, “masak asam ikan patin”. Back at the Hotel, Pak Wir requested for 100,000 Rph. for the lunch trip and the short excursion of Pekanbaru. I felt skeptical about this guy and the instinct he is going to take us for a ride all the way to Padang.

 

At night we decided to walk across the road and had a street hawker nasi padang. The place was overcrowded and the “rendang” was delicious. Sharing our long dining table was a young local couple both graduated from UKM Bangi. We got acquainted and indulged in a lengthy conversation about Pekanbaru, the people, the culture, the food, our impending trip to Padang, Malaysia General Election, Malaysian Chinese, Indonesian Chinese blah blah……..The couple however still miss Malaysia.

07 May 2013: After breakfast Pak Wir picked us up at 0800 hrs and headed for Bukittinngi. Bukittinggi is a Hill resort midway westward between Pekanbaru and Padang. We made a short break at a man made hydroelectric dam and the artificial lake across the Kampar River. We then crossed the Riau/ Sumatra Barat Provincial border. Twemty five (25) kilometers from Payakumbuh we negotiated Kelok 9. A bridge is being constructed between the mountains to discard the nine (9) steep corners for easy traffic flow. It was drizzling and I requested Pak Wir to be extra careful. The ravines are suicidal. For lunch we stopped few kilometers down Kelok 9 at a place call Air Tabis and performed our jamak prayer. The water for ablution was icy cold.

The Dam at Kampar River.

The Lake of Kampar River over the bridge.

Pak Wir - the Driver and the Mobil we travelled with.

Riau / Sumatra Barat Border.

Kelok 9.

Arrived at Bukittinggi we searched for a suitable hotel close to the town center. We found one, Gallery Hotel at Jalan Budiman but the bathroom was rather odd. The wc is located at a narrow corner and could hardly spread our legs. Payment - cash term, no credit card but the Hotel provides free wifi. For only a night, we tolerated.

Gallery Hotel Bukittinggi.

After a short rest, Pak Wir picked us up for city tour and stopped at the town center. Bukittinggi is similar to Cameron Highland and famous for its “Jam Gadang”, 85 feet tall clock tower built in 1926 by the Dutch, a gift from the Queen of Netherland. Nearby is the Istana of Bung Hatta, the birthplace of late Bung Hatta, an Indonesian Nationalist that fought along Soekarno for Independence from the Dutch. I picked up some souvenirs at the Bazaar. It began to rain and we adjourned to a Restaurant for an evening tea.

Jam Gadang.

Bazzaar around Jam Gadang.

Back at the Hotel, we discussed with Pak Wir about the next day programmed. On the way to Padang, I wish to sightseeing Danau Malinjau and since it was a detour from the normal route, Pak Wir requested for 200,000 Rph. extra. I began to question about the verbal agreement at Pekanbaru and finally he settled for 100,000 Rph. It seems the charges keep on escalating. For the night, Pak Wir wished to find a cheap Hotel and requested for 100,000 Rph. I was getting fed up but my cousin submitted and handed him 100,000 Rph. for accommodation. It was not part of the verbal agreement we made at Pekanbaru. Hotel was on his own account.

The rain went through the night and we decided to have fried noodle at the Hotel for dinner. Over dinner, we agreed that soon we arrived at Padang we will pay off Pak Wir whatever due to him and released him. We did not want to be burden anymore of any ridiculous charges. The two cousins are touring Riau & Sumatra Barat on a control budget.

We hit the sack early as tomorrow was going to be a long day.

08 May 2013: Early morning after breakfast we took a short walk to the Jam Gadang complex. We took a horse cart ride round town and enjoyed the beautiful morning mountain breeze.

We rode on one of these.

The detour to Danau Malinjau as Pak Wir claimed was via Sungai Landia and Matur, a narrow mountainous road. The sight high above the mountain at Sungai Landia overlooking the valley was marvelous. Matur is a groundnut agricultural district and we bought a few packets to munch away to Padang. At Matur we were able to enjoy the scenic view of Danau Malinjau from a view point high above the mountain plateau. To be at the shoreline of Danau Malinjau we had to maneuver Kelok forty four (44), forty four sharp and acute corners downhill. You need guts and tolerances to address the sharp corners by yielding oncoming traffic.

Sungai Landia valley.

Sungai Landia valley.

Danau Malinjau from Matur view point.

Danau Malinjau down below.

Beautiful sight.

Kelok 44.

Padi field & Minangkabau house at the mountain slope.

As we negotiated Kelok 44 to Danau Malinjau down below.

We stopped at the shoreline of Danau Malinjau for about half an hour and tasted the local breakfast, green peas stew and bread. We saw the lake activity, fish farming and the morning chores of the Lakers.

Final destination of the day was Padang but after Pariaman, Pak Wir lost his bearing and we landed at the coastal road passing through seaside kampong and fishing villages instead of the normal route to Padang. A goat was nearly run down. The road was in a horrible state. We were practically horse riding inside the car. Pak Wir stopped to ask for direction.

At Danau Malinjau shoreline.

Fishing activity at Danau Malinjau.

Malinjau Breakfast - bubur kacang.

Fish farming at Danau Malinjau.

At last we reached Padang around noon. Pak Wir did not even know where Hotel Axana is. We decided to stop for lunch and had “nasi padang” at Alun Ombak Restaurant, simultaneously inquired where Hotel Axana is. When we found the Hotel, got our room organized, we paid off Pak Wir and released him for good.

At night we took the Hotel taxi and had dinner at Soto Garuda operated by an Indonesian Mamak. We made arrangement with the Taxi driver to arrange for a car to take us to Batu Sangkar the following day.

Padang......here we come.

Nasi padang at Alun Ombak - Padang.

Axana Hotel - Padang.

09 May 2013: The car supposed to pick us up at 0900 hrs but was an hour late. I anticipated a bad start for the day. The Driver sent to us, was a young local guy, jovial, apologetic, Muslim with odd name - John Hendrix. He first took us to the Money Exchange. Our itinerary today was Rumah Gadang and Istana Pagaruyung ie Padang Panjang and Batusangkar.

Waiting for the car.

We started to climb a mountain range heading for Batusangkar. Our first stop was Lembah Anai Waterfall, just by the roadside. The crystal clear mountain stream dropped about 60 feet from the cliff edge of Mount Singgalang and flow downstream into the roaring mountain valley. There is an old heritage railway line and steel bridge crossing nearby. We recorded our presence by the waterfall.

The two cousins by Lembah Anai Waterfall.

Straight down splashing.

Bridge by Lembah Anai waterfall. 

Flowing to the valley below.

The old Railway Line by the Waterfall.

John Hendrix was chatting away like a professional tour guide. What surprised us, in Padang even Pak Haji rear dog? It is to chase away the rampant populations of wild boar that creating havoc to their agricultural plantings. They make it as a sport, hunting wild boars and not many Chinese or non Muslims in Padang to consume the kill. They just bury the carcass.

At Padang Panjang we detoured right, heading for the Rumah Gadang. It is a Museum piece, a typical traditional Minagkabau clan household. The hut close by is padi & rice store, for the purpose of contingency incase the Rumah Gadang catches fire. Boys at ten (10) years of age is ushered to sleep at the Surau enhancing knowledge on Islamic theology, living independently and learning to migrate hinterland seeking their own fortune. Here we were briefed by the Curator, the traditions; custom and the daily live of a typical Minagkabau clan. Dresses of the Chieftains and wedding dresses of the past era were displayed and we could dress in one to be photograph to reminisce the good old days.

Rumah Gadang at Padang Panjang.

Raja Prawinrgara Paduka Maharajarela Mambang DiAwan Melayupura bertakhta di Gunung Singgalang.  

I felt I was completely at home even though my ancestors were not from Minagkabau. The feeling of being real Malay, in a Malay country surrounded by all Malays shivers in my blood stream. Everything was Malay. There was no sign of any Chinaman.

Next destination was Batusangkar and at Batu Hampar we stopped fornasi padang lunch but most of the dishes was sold out. Finally I got my favorite, “jengkol masak lemak”. Final destination was Istano Basa Pagaruyung at Tanah Datar - the Palace of the Minangkabau Sultan, the last was Sultan Tangkal Alam.

Unfortunately it was closed for visitors for renovations. I stood to admire the fine architecture where there is not a single nail being used. I was pleased to buy as memento of my visit: Bapak Hamka’s Novel “Tenggelam nya Kapal Van der Wijck” and a collection of “Minangkabau Pantun & Puisi”. The Kingdom of Pagaruyung went back into history, where it was also known as Melayupura. This is one place where Negeri Sembilan Malays should visit. The dialect around Batusangkar is similar to the Malays in Seri Menanti and Kual Pilah. Dua belas sound as duo boleh. Glass sound as goleh.

Istano Basa Pagaruyung Exit.

Istana Pagaruyung frontage.

The corridor to the Istana Kitchen,

Back view of the Istana.

Three Minangkabau girls with their traditional dresses. 

We had to back track the same route to Padang. We stopped for a while at the “Batu Bersurat” complex where several stone tabloid in scripted from ancient Hindu/ Buddhism.  It was around mid evening and along the way home the sceneries of the terrace padi fields and the kampongs down the valley was marvelous. How I wish I could stay for a week around this region to enjoy the scenic beauty. It would be an artist paradise.

The padi field at the Tanah Datar. .

Terrace padi planting.

At Padang Panjang we stopped for tea and the famous Satay House at Sate Mak Syukur. The dish was seven (7) sticks of beef satay with ketupat and the kuah wrapped in a banana leaves. No big deal. The place is so famous that there is a portrait of SBY the Indonesian President hanging on the wall enjoying the satay. To me it was nothing great compared to Kajang Satay. John Hendrix was laughing when I ordered Ice Tea. There is no ice up on this mountain, so he giggled.

Sate mak Syukur House at Padang Panjang.

We stopped by at Padang Panjang Darul Iman Mosque for jamak zohor and asar prayers.

We were going downhill back to Padang. The road is parallel to a mountain stream and what a beauty. Arriving Padang we went straight to pick up some local cookies for the Home Ministry. We were completely exhausted and had simple dinner, Indonesian bakso (noodle soup) nearby, just round the Hotel corner.

10 May 2013: Checked out at 0600 hrs and John Hendrix drove us to the Airport. We had breakfast at the Airport Café. I encountered familiar faces from Port Klang and some ladies were my wife ex office mates. The flight was on schedule and landed LCCT before schedule. I was surprised it took only about half an hour flight time from Padang to LCCT.

I got a lift from LCCT to home base by Cik Gu Haji Nisrun and wife Hajjah Saadiah. I saved the taxi fare.

Comment:

Be careful with expenses as the Indonesians think we print money back home and to throw in Indonesia. Meeting a friend and requesting the Driver to wait for about fifteen (15) minutes the charges was 200,000 Rph.

I don’t really fancy Nasi Padang Restaurant as they bring out all the varieties of dishes available. They remove what is not eaten (no charge) and they repeat the process to the next oncoming customers. I feel like eating someone leftover. I prefer Malaysian styles you choose what you want to eat from the food counter.

The numerous night hawker stall’s food seem to be very tasty but it is rather risky hygienically. We sat at an overcrowded one but with the Indonesian population, everywhere is over crowded. Alhamdullillah, my tummy sustained.

              

Whatever…………I plan to return to Bukittinggi and Batusangkar again. Next time around would be with the family and a group tour.