The Spiritual Journey.

It was in 1995, the last time the family went to the Holy Land and this time around, my daughter suggested that we should revisit for umrah. I made the arrangement with Al Mukminin Travel Agency and it was all set for my wife, daughter and me to make the journey. For this journey it was my thirteen (13) trip to the Holy Land.

Day 1 – 14 March 2011.

Left KLIA by Saudi Flight SV 833 at 1500 hours with thirty eight (38) Pilgrims. I lead this group of Pilgrims as Ustaz Mokhzar had left a day earlier with another set of twenty six (26) Pilgrims via Emirates Airline. In the Saudi Airline entourage the youngest was three (3) year old Mohd Hakim and the oldest was seventy three (73) year old Navy Retiree, Haji Hassan. Our flight made an hour stopover at Riyad for refueling and dropped off passengers.

The plane finally landed at Medina Airport at 1900 hours (local time). Surprisingly, the Immigration formalities were very smooth except for one small hiccup when one Pilgrim did not have his embarkation card. It was sorted out without any hassle and the thirty (30) minutes Coach journey took us to Moltaqa Al Alam Hotel, a few blocks behind Masjid Nabawi (The Holy Prophet’s Mosque). Ustaz Mokhzar had already arrived at the Hotel via Jeddah. I officially handed the thirty eight (38) Pilgrims welfare to Ustaz Mokhzar and assisted Ustaz Mokhzar where necessary. My family was allotted to Room 1009.

We were not supposed to stay at this Hotel as the pre booked Hotel was hijacked by the Turks. Even at this Hotel there was no space available at the Dining Hall to accommodate all Al Mukminin Pilgrims as the Hotel was fully booked. Alternatively we temporarily set up a buffet table at the 6 floor. We were back to dining “kampong style” cross legged on the floor. Anyway it was only for three (3) days. In the Holy Land we are suppose to show patience and tolerance.

Some Pilgrims performed their solat qasar at the Mosque and some simply in the room. The nine (9) hours flight was really exhausting.

Day 2 – 15 March 2011.

My first prayer at Masjid Nabawi was subuh and I chose to be under the umbrella. It brought back fond memories where Haji Bakir and I used to pray here during our past frequent visits. After breakfast, rested for a while and at 0930 hours I slowly make my way into Raudah and visited the Holy Prophet’s Tomb. I greeted the Holy Prophet and His two Companions, Saidina Abu Bakar and Saidina Omar and convey the same on behalf of my Mother and friends. I spent about an hour in Raudah performing all the solat sunat that I know off. Though it was crowded I managed to find a space unnoticed by the Security Guards.

Masjid Nabawi.

Under the green dome is the Holy Prophet's (pbuh) Tomb.

During the evening prayers I accompanied Zahrul, a first timer to the Holy Land to perform our solat. My wife and daughter visited Raudah after Isyakh.

Day 3 – 16 March 2011.

Visits to historical places in Medina – all Pilgrims were advised to take their ablution at the Hotel and the first visit was Quba Mosque. We ventured out to the outskirt of Medina by two (2) Coaches. Quba Mosque is the first Mosque that the Holy Prophet built soon as the Holiness arrived from Mecca during the Hijrah. Performing solat sunat at this Mosque with ablution intact from one residence is equivalent of performing one (1) umrah. We then went to jabal Uhud, the Battlefield between the Holy Prophet and His Followers against the Infidels, the Queresh of Mecca. We said our prayers at the Tomb of Holy Prophet’s uncle, Saidina Hamzah who succumbed as Martyr during this battle. Few Pilgrims mounted the Archers Mount to explore how The Holy Prophet’s Army facing the onslaught of the Queresh.

Praying for world peace at Quba Mosque.

The Pilgrims at Uhud.

At the Qura'an Printing Factory.

Next visit was the Qura’an Printing Factory. Only male Pilgrims were allowed to enter and were given a complimentary copy. The female Pilgrims was ushered to the Exhibition Hall where they could choose to purchase any amount of sets.

We stopped at a Date Farm and most Pilgrims bought their varieties of dates here. Due to time constraints and zohor was approaching we were unable to stop at the Date Market. On the way back we just passed by the Qiblatin Mosque and the Seven Mosques. The Mutawif just gave a historical briefing over the public address systems.

Before asar there was a shower but I was already in the Mosque and I could only heard the sound of the falling rain.

Few Pilgrims went to the Date Market after asar. The dates here are much cheaper. In the meantime my wife and daughter went out shopping scrounging for souvenirs from Medina as the following day we were leaving for Mecca.

Day 4 – 17 March 2011.

Leaving for Mecca today and we had to perform the widak (farewell to the Holy Prophet). I chose my subuh at upfront in the Mosque and as soon as I completed the subuh prayer, I performed the widak and seek Allah blessing that I would be invited again to this Holy Mosque, insyaalah.

Later in the morning my daughter and I went to record our presence at Masjid Nabawi and its surroundings.

One of the golden door of Masjid Nabawi.

Rear view of Masjid Nabawi with the new umbrella like canopies.

At the main rear door of Masjid Nabawi.

The background Hotel was my residence during 1999 Haj - Hotel Andalus.

Back at the Hotel, I had to ensure all the Pilgrims were all set for the 480 kilometer journey to Mecca, luggage in the Coach, room key returned and nothing left behind. For the male Pilgrims, the wearing of the ihram was all in order and proper. Sharp at 1030 hours we left Medina and headed for Mecca.

Twenty (20) minutes out from Medina we arrived at Bir Ali Mosque. Here is the miqat point where the Pilgrims recited his/her intention to perform the umrah. After the short break, the journey to Mecca began and all Pilgrims had to abide all prohibitions when the intention for umrah had been recited.

Halfway, the Coach made a stop for the Pilgrims to perform solat jamak, zohor and asar and for lunch. The Restaurant was chaotic with so many Pilgrims from different nations stopping simultaneously. Every Pilgrims calling for food and there was no such system as queuing up. The Washroom was in horrible state, there was no water and the Mosque carpet was splattered with sands. Nobody seems to take care of the Mosque and Islam is all about cleanliness. I wish PLUS can negotiate with the Saudi Kingdom and set up R&R similar to our PLUS Highway. Luckily I had a bottle of mineral water and I hid behind some rock, a distance away to pee and wash off. For my ablution, I used the balance of the water to take an emergency ablution (permissible in Islam during emergency). For the balance, I passed it to Dato Azmi. When I came back to the Restaurant, food was served in a big tray to be shared by five (5) or six (6) Pilgrims. I had to make do what was available for I could not grumble, be patience and tolerance. Allah had set it to be that way.

Two (2) more hours to Mecca and for the first time I saw the mountain slopes were green as it had been raining lately around this area. The camels and the sheep were happily grazing.

Arrived Mecca at 1800 hours when solat asar had completed and the crowds were streaming back to their Hotels. The Coach parked a distance away from the Hotel and could not wait long. The Drivers unloaded all the luggage and some of us had to standby guarding the luggage waiting for the Hotel Porters to pick them up. In the meantime Ustaz Mokhzar was sorting out the rooms at Rawabi Al Taj Hotel. Few Pilgrims had to be relocated to different Hotel nearby as rooms were inadequate. I was finally allotted to Room 104. I performed my magrib and isyakh in the room due to the lengthy checking in procedures, moreover during isyakh there was a very heavy downpour. Dinner was finally served at 2200 hours as the allotted area for dining at the 10 Floor was flooded due to the heavy rain. Allah had destined to be that way.

At 2330 hours the entourage led by a Mutawif entered Masjidil Haram to perform the tawaf. Since my wife and daughter were keen to join the group I too joined in. After completing the tawaf, the Pilgrims adjourned for solat sunat tawaf. It was Friday night and Allah blessed us as rain started to fall. I wept silently in the falling rain as this was my first solat sunat tawaf that rain fell on me. Syukur Alhamdullillah.

The Kaabah and prayer in session.

The first floor view of Masjidil Haram.

Day 5 – 18 March 2011.

We completed the saie, the seven pacing between the Hill of Safa and the Hill of Marwah at 0200 hours in the morning. The ritual was to imitate the desperation of Hajar to find water for her son Ismael when Abraham left them in the desert wilderness. The next ritual was to cut off at least three strings of the hair and I headed for the Barber Shop. I broke off from the group as Ustaz Mokhzar and the Mutawif was in full control. This time around I did not go bald and satisfied with the No 1 cut, next to baldness. We hardly slept until after subuh.

Before the Friday afternoon prayer I got myself a new praying mat as I anticipated the Mosque would be filled up. I performed my Friday prayer outside the Mosque, at the Dataran. After the prayer I had an appointment to meet up with my friends who are involved with the construction of the Zam Zam tower Clock. I was glad to rendezvous with Wan Nazri, Hamdani and Azizul at the De Saji Restaurant and we had roti canai for lunch. The last time I met these guys was during 2010 Ramadan.

My buddies who install the Zam Zam Tower Clock. Lunch at Felda De Saji.

After asar I went shopping for soap powder and white musk perfume. After Isyakh I went looking for my Yemeni buddy Ismail and Abdillah but they were no more operating the usual shop outlet.

Day 6 – 19 March 2011.

After subuh I collected the laundry. There was a sudden change of plan as after zohor we were going to visit Hubaidiyah, Camel Farm and Museum. Hubaidiyah is a historical site where the Holy Prophet who travelled from Medina stopped here before entering Mecca to perform an umrah. However the Queresh of Mecca disallowed the Holy Prophet and a Treaty was made (details of the Treaty please refer to the Treaty of Hubaidiyah). Now at present time, Pilgrims all over the world back tracked and miqat at Hubaidiyah to perform an umrah in Mecca. We were not allowed to visit the Museum as it was Public holiday but we stopped at the Camel Farm to see how the Bedouins raise the camels for sacrifice during Aidiladha. We tasted the camel’s milk and it cost 5 (five) Saudi Riyal for a small bottle. It seems the milk is an antidote for asthma.

At the Camel Farm.

My daughter at the Camel Farm.

Cheeky Zahim posing with a camel.

I performed asar and miqat at Hubaidiyah Mosque and the umrah was for my friend Haji Naburi Idin who passed away in January 2011. I was disgusted with the condition of Hubadiyah Mosque. The Mosque and its Washroom is the same as twenty (20) years ago. The Kingdom should do something about this Mosque as they can spend billions on the Zam Zam Clock Tower but the Mosque at Hubaidiyah is in a very bad shape.

Immediately I entered Mecca I performed the tawaf and completed just before maghrib and I stayed on in front of the Kaabah to perform my solat fardhu maghrib. I performed my saie in between maghrib and isyakh and completed my second umrah.

On the way out from the Mosque a Pilgrim friend from Kota Kinabalu, Haji Hasbullah called and we met at Felda De Saji Restaurant for roti canai.

Day 7 – 20 March 2011.

It’s cheaper to send the laundry to the Indonesians. After breakfast the Al Mukminin entourage would visit historical sites around Mecca. We stopped at Mount Thur, Desert of Arafat, Mount Rahmah, Muzdalifah, Meena, Mount Hira and Jairanah Mosque for miqat. These places are significant to the Haj rituals. We could see the new rail track between Meena/Desert of Arafat. We climbed Mount Rahmah, a meeting place between Adam and Eve after 40 years of separation when Allah banished them to Earth for defying the Almighty.

Mount Rahmah had been conquered by syndicate of Beggars along the steps and Peddlers selling their goods right at the top of the summit. The same set of Beggars would be transferred by the yndicate to Masjidil Haram in the afternoon. The Beggars are physically deformed black children and I hated most to see their Mothers or Caretakers waiting by the side. I don’t understand why the Kingdom does not do anything to maintain the holiness of Mount Rahmah. Where is the enforcement? Black African would try to con anyone to snap photographs. The Desert of Arafat just before the Mount is splattered with camel shits! The Camel Guides will lead the camels right to the Coach convincing Pilgrims to ride the camels with a fees and if not careful can be charge as high as 150 Saudi Riyal.

My daughter at the summit of Mount Rahmah.

I observed some changes to Jairanah Mosque, the Washroom had been renovated. Thousands of Pilgrims stopped at this place daily from the Desert of Arafat on the way into Mecca to do the miqat.

I performed the miqat at Jairanah Mosque and the third umrah was for my late father, Tuan Haji Abdul Hamid.

Day 8 – 21 March 2011.

Free day and I went shopping to Bin Dawood for my Darling Shasha. I promised to get her a school bag with wheels. I walked around Misfalah area and I found a small camera casing for 15 Saudi Riyal. It was a good bargain as the same at Zam Zam Shopping Complex was 75 Saudi Riyal. After zohor I went to De Saji for lunch with my Clock Tower buddies. I bumped into Haji Arshad the Hotel Manager where I stayed during 2010 Ramadan. After Isyakh the family decided to have dinner at De Saji.

Day 9 – 22 March 2011.

After subuh we went shopping at Hilton. I got to buy several items that my kampong’s buddy YM Raja Sahar requested for. For maghrib and isyakh, for a change and nostalgia, I decided to pray at the place where I used to pray during my Haj in 1999.

On the way to Masjidil Haram. (Left is Hilton and right is Zam Zam Tower).

After Isyakh, Ustaz Mokhzar took four (4) ladies of our Pilgrims to climb Mount Noor to Hira Cave. I abstained as I don’t think I have the energy to climb mountains.

Day 10 – 23 March 2011.

After subuh I developed running nose. I took the IPad down to the Lobby but the WiFi strength was too weak. I could not access to my email and news back home instead Zahim took over and played games. I went to Misfalah area to accompany my wife who wanted to shop for women apparels.

After zohor we went to Tanaim for miqat. The trip was sponsored by Zahrul. At Tanaim after the miqat, I suddenly realized the Van Driver was my Arab friend Abu Salim. I befriended this Arabic during 2009 Ramadan umrah where he would picked me and my friends at Royal Sultan Hotel for Tanaim. Abu Salim still remembers me and he gave 10 Saudi Riyal discount from 80 to 70 for good old time sake. He even sent us back to Masjidil Haram at Hilton underground and we took the escalator to the Mosque. Only Abu Salim and me understood the code word; Hilton Krek Krek.

My two ladies at Masjid Aishah at Tanaim.

This fourth umrah was for my former Boss, Tuan Haji Dato Ismayuddin Manan who had passed away. Somehow for the past two (2) nights he appeared in my dream. Probably everybody was asking where I was working before and when I said Kumpulan Guthrie, Haji Ismayuddin image appeared in my mind. He was instrumental of transferring me from the Port Installation to Head the Distribution Department in the Head Office. I remain grateful to the good old man.

Performed the tawaf with Hidhir the Police Officer and completed just before asar. Hidhir is a big size guy tagging right behind me and I felt very safe that no wheel chair would knock me from behind. We stayed on at Dataran Kaabah to perform solat asar and we were fortunate that we were in line with Hijril Aswad. Saie was done immediately and completed at 1800 hours. The running nose was getting worst and I did my magrib in the room. For isyakh, I went to the Mosque but left immediately after the prayer to avoid affecting other Pilgrims of my running nose. I hit the sack early as I was damn exhausted.

Day 11 – 24 March 2011.

Free Day. In between solat we went shopping at Safwah. I managed to get crystal replicas of Masjid Nabawai and Masjidil Haram. Finally we managed to get the zamrud stones for YM Raja Sahar’s mother. After isyakh I left my wife and daughter to shop on their own and I went to meet my friends at De Saji. To close the evening we bought four (4) bottles of Habatusaudah Yemen Honey for 480 Saudi Riyal.

I received a disturbing short message from home that my Ramadan umrah buddy Haji Suran had been rejected by Hospital Tawakkal KL and was in bad shape. I immediately passed the message to all my acquaintance in Mecca who knows Haji Suran and they agreed to “doa” for Haji Suran well being in front of the Kaabah.

Day 12 – 25 March 2011.

After subuh, Ustaz Mokhzar passed the 38 Pilgrims Passports and flight tickets for my safe keeping. Ustaz Mokhzar and the Emirates flight Pilgrims led by Ustaz Mokhzar left for Jeddah at 1030 hrs and flew home later in the evening. I had to take charge of the 38 remaining Pilgrims.

Friday Prayer – the shadow of Zam Zam Tower Building protected me from the hot sun. I prayed in front of the Building as the Mosque was filled up to capacity. Sometimes before the khutbah, Haji Zailan from Shah Alam KL sent a short message that Haji Suran was out of danger and recuperating. Alhamdullilah, I raised my hands thankful to Almighty Allah.

Pilgrims waiting for Friday prayers outside Masjidil Haram.

One of the thousands Pilgrims during Friday prayer.

Pilgrims in front of the Main Gate of Masjidil Haram during Friday prayer.

After lunch, Zahim, my favorite Std Six young lad presented me with a watch. I was touched with the gift. I gave an ice cream treat to Zahim and I love to have this cute lad tagging along. I used to teach him all the shortcuts to Masjidil Haram. After isyakh the family went to Zam Zam Shopping Complex for last minute shopping of date chocolates. Packing time and we found we were short of space and I had to buy an extra bag. I ensured the honey does not leak and wrap it up tightly with several layers of plastic bags.

My daughter shopping at Zam Zam Tower Shopping Complex.

Day 13 – 26 March 2011.

At 0930 hours I went to Hilton Saudi Airline Office to obtain Boarding Passes for tonight flight home. I was finally issued at 1100 hours as there were no systems at the counter. Numbering was ignored and the display numbers were not moving. Arabs gentleman full dressed with aghal could bypass anybody. The Malaysians, Pakistanis and the Bangladeshis were sitting waiting like bloody fools. I was agitated and I commented to one Arab gentleman who sat beside me that it wasn’t fair. I told him I have 38 boarding passes to clear and I had been waiting since 0930 hours and the numbers were not moving. This Arab gentleman stood up and I saw him walking straight to the Manager’s Office. Now the numbers started counting and the Bangladeshis and the Pakistanis Travel agents gave me a thumb up. My number was called and I presented the Passports, of parents with children. The Issuing Counter refused to look at the Passports and within minutes he issued all the 38 Boarding Passes ignoring parents with children. Maybe he was angry with me. Who cares? Once I got the Boarding Passes, one gentleman advised me to check on spot. I had to find a table and sort them one by one. The Arab gentleman came to the table and smiled at me. I thanked him and I knew he had done something to accelerate the pace. I suspected he could be one of top Arab Civil servant from outside Mecca.

Went back to the Hotel and passed the Passports and Boarding Passes to Hasrul asking him to sort out and juggle the seating especially parent with children. He too gave up and would sort out in the plane.

I went for zohor and I chose to pray near the Kaabah. That would ease me to perform my widak soon after zohor. I got a place facing Rukun Yamani of the Kaabah. I bear the hot sun for a while. After the solat, I did my tawaf widak (farewell tawaf). My prayers to Almighty Allah that this would not be the last time I shall be at the Kaabah. Please invite me again.

Back to the Hotel, a quick lunch and got to sort out the checking out of 38 Pilgrims. I had to ensure the 5 Pilgrims that remained behind were allocated to the right room. The luggage and zam zam water canisters were loaded in the Coach and we set straight to Saudi Airline Airport in Jeddah. Some of the Jemaah were in tears leaving Mecca. Some were enjoying the scenic beauty along the Highway to Jeddah. To facilitate the Airport potential checking in procedures and the Airport Porters fees I collected 30 Saudi Riyal and 15 Saudi Riyal from each Pilgrims for “baksis”.(token of appreciation).

Haji Ismail (Resident Al Mukminin Rep) and I ensured that all luggage and zam zam water canisters passed through without any question asked. That’s the beauty of travelling by Saudi Airline. However we had to be in waiting, the bigger the baksis, the faster the luggage trolleys can be being emptied.

Pilgrims then passed through the Immigration formalities, entered the Departure Lounge and laze around at the Duty Free Shop. I regretted for entering early as the whole Departure Lounge is a Non Smoking Area. The Duty Free Shop however sells cigarette but smoking no can do. Pathetic!!

Inside the plane SV 832 destined for KLIA, Hasrul was busy as the Plane Conductor. He juggled around with the seating allotment. The plane was delayed for about 30 minutes due to the confusion of all seating arrangement by several different Travel Agents.

Day 14 – 28 March 2011.

The Saudi Airline plane was 777 but the flight display monitor was screwed up. We had no idea where we were and how long more to destination. The Pilot never made any announcement. The only best indication was the belly camera.

We touched down at KLIA at 1400 hours (local time) and HOME SWEET HOME. No Pilgrims complained of any loss luggage.

My son and Shasha were at KLIA to greet our return.

TO WHOM IT MAY CONCERN: This is the second time I was given the task and responsibilities to lead a set of Pilgrims to/from the Holy Land. Only Allah can judge my capabilities upon which I entrusted upon the Almighty to guide and assist me to fulfill the Pilgrims satisfaction.

Another journey of successful umrah.