Riau & Sumatra Barat.

06 May 2013: The Federal Highway was free this morning, a Public Holiday, a day after General Election. Arrived at Subang Sky Park and joined by my cousin. The two Retirees were on a mission to “jalan jalan cari makan or cari pasal”. Checked in, destined for Pekanbaru Sumatra and had our breakfast before Departure Hall. Took off at 0830 hrs, smooth flight vides Fokker Friendship. It was in 1993 last, I flew in one. I was quite depressing during the flight as Selangor remained with PR but overall, Malaysia remains intact with BN. I joked with my cousin hopefully by the time we return home Dato Seri Najib is still the PM.

  

Arrived Pekanbaru – smoothly passing the Immigration and Custom. Checked in at Dyan Graha Hotel, located at Jalan Gatot Suproto which is close to a Shopping Mall. I excused myself to meet a friend, in the meantime my cousin was looking for a chauffeured driven car for our extension trip to Bukittinggi and onward to Padang. My cousin got a car for 1.1 million Rph. for three (3) days period with Pak Wir. To me it was a good bargain, too good to be true. I gave the benefit of doubt.

Hotel Dyan Graha.

To start with, Pak Wir drove us for lunch at Pondok Patin H. M. Yunus at Jalan Kaharuddin No 1. Well, we enjoyed the food, “masak asam ikan patin”. Back at the Hotel, Pak Wir requested for 100,000 Rph. for the lunch trip and the short excursion of Pekanbaru. I felt skeptical about this guy and the instinct he is going to take us for a ride all the way to Padang.

 

At night we decided to walk across the road and had a street hawker nasi padang. The place was overcrowded and the “rendang” was delicious. Sharing our long dining table was a young local couple both graduated from UKM Bangi. We got acquainted and indulged in a lengthy conversation about Pekanbaru, the people, the culture, the food, our impending trip to Padang, Malaysia General Election, Malaysian Chinese, Indonesian Chinese blah blah……..The couple however still miss Malaysia.

07 May 2013: After breakfast Pak Wir picked us up at 0800 hrs and headed for Bukittinngi. Bukittinggi is a Hill resort midway westward between Pekanbaru and Padang. We made a short break at a man made hydroelectric dam and the artificial lake across the Kampar River. We then crossed the Riau/ Sumatra Barat Provincial border. Twemty five (25) kilometers from Payakumbuh we negotiated Kelok 9. A bridge is being constructed between the mountains to discard the nine (9) steep corners for easy traffic flow. It was drizzling and I requested Pak Wir to be extra careful. The ravines are suicidal. For lunch we stopped few kilometers down Kelok 9 at a place call Air Tabis and performed our jamak prayer. The water for ablution was icy cold.

The Dam at Kampar River.

The Lake of Kampar River over the bridge.

Pak Wir - the Driver and the Mobil we travelled with.

Riau / Sumatra Barat Border.

Kelok 9.

Arrived at Bukittinggi we searched for a suitable hotel close to the town center. We found one, Gallery Hotel at Jalan Budiman but the bathroom was rather odd. The wc is located at a narrow corner and could hardly spread our legs. Payment - cash term, no credit card but the Hotel provides free wifi. For only a night, we tolerated.

Gallery Hotel Bukittinggi.

After a short rest, Pak Wir picked us up for city tour and stopped at the town center. Bukittinggi is similar to Cameron Highland and famous for its “Jam Gadang”, 85 feet tall clock tower built in 1926 by the Dutch, a gift from the Queen of Netherland. Nearby is the Istana of Bung Hatta, the birthplace of late Bung Hatta, an Indonesian Nationalist that fought along Soekarno for Independence from the Dutch. I picked up some souvenirs at the Bazaar. It began to rain and we adjourned to a Restaurant for an evening tea.

Jam Gadang.

Bazzaar around Jam Gadang.

Back at the Hotel, we discussed with Pak Wir about the next day programmed. On the way to Padang, I wish to sightseeing Danau Malinjau and since it was a detour from the normal route, Pak Wir requested for 200,000 Rph. extra. I began to question about the verbal agreement at Pekanbaru and finally he settled for 100,000 Rph. It seems the charges keep on escalating. For the night, Pak Wir wished to find a cheap Hotel and requested for 100,000 Rph. I was getting fed up but my cousin submitted and handed him 100,000 Rph. for accommodation. It was not part of the verbal agreement we made at Pekanbaru. Hotel was on his own account.

The rain went through the night and we decided to have fried noodle at the Hotel for dinner. Over dinner, we agreed that soon we arrived at Padang we will pay off Pak Wir whatever due to him and released him. We did not want to be burden anymore of any ridiculous charges. The two cousins are touring Riau & Sumatra Barat on a control budget.

We hit the sack early as tomorrow was going to be a long day.

08 May 2013: Early morning after breakfast we took a short walk to the Jam Gadang complex. We took a horse cart ride round town and enjoyed the beautiful morning mountain breeze.

We rode on one of these.

The detour to Danau Malinjau as Pak Wir claimed was via Sungai Landia and Matur, a narrow mountainous road. The sight high above the mountain at Sungai Landia overlooking the valley was marvelous. Matur is a groundnut agricultural district and we bought a few packets to munch away to Padang. At Matur we were able to enjoy the scenic view of Danau Malinjau from a view point high above the mountain plateau. To be at the shoreline of Danau Malinjau we had to maneuver Kelok forty four (44), forty four sharp and acute corners downhill. You need guts and tolerances to address the sharp corners by yielding oncoming traffic.

Sungai Landia valley.

Sungai Landia valley.

Danau Malinjau from Matur view point.

Danau Malinjau down below.

Beautiful sight.

Kelok 44.

Padi field & Minangkabau house at the mountain slope.

As we negotiated Kelok 44 to Danau Malinjau down below.

We stopped at the shoreline of Danau Malinjau for about half an hour and tasted the local breakfast, green peas stew and bread. We saw the lake activity, fish farming and the morning chores of the Lakers.

Final destination of the day was Padang but after Pariaman, Pak Wir lost his bearing and we landed at the coastal road passing through seaside kampong and fishing villages instead of the normal route to Padang. A goat was nearly run down. The road was in a horrible state. We were practically horse riding inside the car. Pak Wir stopped to ask for direction.

At Danau Malinjau shoreline.

Fishing activity at Danau Malinjau.

Malinjau Breakfast - bubur kacang.

Fish farming at Danau Malinjau.

At last we reached Padang around noon. Pak Wir did not even know where Hotel Axana is. We decided to stop for lunch and had “nasi padang” at Alun Ombak Restaurant, simultaneously inquired where Hotel Axana is. When we found the Hotel, got our room organized, we paid off Pak Wir and released him for good.

At night we took the Hotel taxi and had dinner at Soto Garuda operated by an Indonesian Mamak. We made arrangement with the Taxi driver to arrange for a car to take us to Batu Sangkar the following day.

Padang......here we come.

Nasi padang at Alun Ombak - Padang.

Axana Hotel - Padang.

09 May 2013: The car supposed to pick us up at 0900 hrs but was an hour late. I anticipated a bad start for the day. The Driver sent to us, was a young local guy, jovial, apologetic, Muslim with odd name - John Hendrix. He first took us to the Money Exchange. Our itinerary today was Rumah Gadang and Istana Pagaruyung ie Padang Panjang and Batusangkar.

Waiting for the car.

We started to climb a mountain range heading for Batusangkar. Our first stop was Lembah Anai Waterfall, just by the roadside. The crystal clear mountain stream dropped about 60 feet from the cliff edge of Mount Singgalang and flow downstream into the roaring mountain valley. There is an old heritage railway line and steel bridge crossing nearby. We recorded our presence by the waterfall.

The two cousins by Lembah Anai Waterfall.

Straight down splashing.

Bridge by Lembah Anai waterfall. 

Flowing to the valley below.

The old Railway Line by the Waterfall.

John Hendrix was chatting away like a professional tour guide. What surprised us, in Padang even Pak Haji rear dog? It is to chase away the rampant populations of wild boar that creating havoc to their agricultural plantings. They make it as a sport, hunting wild boars and not many Chinese or non Muslims in Padang to consume the kill. They just bury the carcass.

At Padang Panjang we detoured right, heading for the Rumah Gadang. It is a Museum piece, a typical traditional Minagkabau clan household. The hut close by is padi & rice store, for the purpose of contingency incase the Rumah Gadang catches fire. Boys at ten (10) years of age is ushered to sleep at the Surau enhancing knowledge on Islamic theology, living independently and learning to migrate hinterland seeking their own fortune. Here we were briefed by the Curator, the traditions; custom and the daily live of a typical Minagkabau clan. Dresses of the Chieftains and wedding dresses of the past era were displayed and we could dress in one to be photograph to reminisce the good old days.

Rumah Gadang at Padang Panjang.

Raja Prawinrgara Paduka Maharajarela Mambang DiAwan Melayupura bertakhta di Gunung Singgalang.  

I felt I was completely at home even though my ancestors were not from Minagkabau. The feeling of being real Malay, in a Malay country surrounded by all Malays shivers in my blood stream. Everything was Malay. There was no sign of any Chinaman.

Next destination was Batusangkar and at Batu Hampar we stopped fornasi padang lunch but most of the dishes was sold out. Finally I got my favorite, “jengkol masak lemak”. Final destination was Istano Basa Pagaruyung at Tanah Datar - the Palace of the Minangkabau Sultan, the last was Sultan Tangkal Alam.

Unfortunately it was closed for visitors for renovations. I stood to admire the fine architecture where there is not a single nail being used. I was pleased to buy as memento of my visit: Bapak Hamka’s Novel “Tenggelam nya Kapal Van der Wijck” and a collection of “Minangkabau Pantun & Puisi”. The Kingdom of Pagaruyung went back into history, where it was also known as Melayupura. This is one place where Negeri Sembilan Malays should visit. The dialect around Batusangkar is similar to the Malays in Seri Menanti and Kual Pilah. Dua belas sound as duo boleh. Glass sound as goleh.

Istano Basa Pagaruyung Exit.

Istana Pagaruyung frontage.

The corridor to the Istana Kitchen,

Back view of the Istana.

Three Minangkabau girls with their traditional dresses. 

We had to back track the same route to Padang. We stopped for a while at the “Batu Bersurat” complex where several stone tabloid in scripted from ancient Hindu/ Buddhism.  It was around mid evening and along the way home the sceneries of the terrace padi fields and the kampongs down the valley was marvelous. How I wish I could stay for a week around this region to enjoy the scenic beauty. It would be an artist paradise.

The padi field at the Tanah Datar. .

Terrace padi planting.

At Padang Panjang we stopped for tea and the famous Satay House at Sate Mak Syukur. The dish was seven (7) sticks of beef satay with ketupat and the kuah wrapped in a banana leaves. No big deal. The place is so famous that there is a portrait of SBY the Indonesian President hanging on the wall enjoying the satay. To me it was nothing great compared to Kajang Satay. John Hendrix was laughing when I ordered Ice Tea. There is no ice up on this mountain, so he giggled.

Sate mak Syukur House at Padang Panjang.

We stopped by at Padang Panjang Darul Iman Mosque for jamak zohor and asar prayers.

We were going downhill back to Padang. The road is parallel to a mountain stream and what a beauty. Arriving Padang we went straight to pick up some local cookies for the Home Ministry. We were completely exhausted and had simple dinner, Indonesian bakso (noodle soup) nearby, just round the Hotel corner.

10 May 2013: Checked out at 0600 hrs and John Hendrix drove us to the Airport. We had breakfast at the Airport Café. I encountered familiar faces from Port Klang and some ladies were my wife ex office mates. The flight was on schedule and landed LCCT before schedule. I was surprised it took only about half an hour flight time from Padang to LCCT.

I got a lift from LCCT to home base by Cik Gu Haji Nisrun and wife Hajjah Saadiah. I saved the taxi fare.

Comment:

Be careful with expenses as the Indonesians think we print money back home and to throw in Indonesia. Meeting a friend and requesting the Driver to wait for about fifteen (15) minutes the charges was 200,000 Rph.

I don’t really fancy Nasi Padang Restaurant as they bring out all the varieties of dishes available. They remove what is not eaten (no charge) and they repeat the process to the next oncoming customers. I feel like eating someone leftover. I prefer Malaysian styles you choose what you want to eat from the food counter.

The numerous night hawker stall’s food seem to be very tasty but it is rather risky hygienically. We sat at an overcrowded one but with the Indonesian population, everywhere is over crowded. Alhamdullillah, my tummy sustained.

              

Whatever…………I plan to return to Bukittinggi and Batusangkar again. Next time around would be with the family and a group tour.